Another World Cup this weekend, so we get another climbing post. It's a bouldering/speed world cup and, as usual, I will be covering the boulder part. This is the last World Cup before the Olympic circuit starts up again in mid-May. Once this event concludes, I'm planning on posting about how accurate these predictions have … Continue reading Climbing: Salt Lake City 2024
Month: April 2024
AFL: Round 8, 2024
Middle of the road in Bits and 5th last in MAE this week on Squiggle, which isn't horrible but isn't great either. The main issue comes from that Sydney tip. 71% confidence but only a margin of 7? Oh well. I've been thinking of improvements to make for STaRS 2025, and I think I've gotten … Continue reading AFL: Round 8, 2024
AFL: Round 7, 2024
Just an awful, awful round. Last on Squiggle for MAE, 3rd last for Bits. Things were going pretty well and this has shot me straight back down to the bottom. Our team of the week is Collingwood! They put their foot on the gas at quarter time against Port and didn't look back. Aside from … Continue reading AFL: Round 7, 2024
AFL: Round 6, 2024
It started as a good week and became a fairly mediocre one, as I was keeping my MAE and Bits down even while getting tips wrong, initially. The top team this week was Gold Coast, who absolutely crushed Hawthorn. The bottom team was Richmond, who were beaten very convincingly by lowly West Coast for their … Continue reading AFL: Round 6, 2024
Climbing: Wujiang 2024
The boulder event in Keqiao hasn't ended yet, but the lead climbing season starts tomorrow! Like always, the model is a work in progress, etc. Lead climbing is especially difficult to rate since we don't always know how many holds there are on every climb. For the moment, the model is making assumptions on the … Continue reading Climbing: Wujiang 2024
AFL: Round 5, 2024
A bit of a sad week for Stattraction, as StRAinE broke down and will require a rewrite of the code base in order to get going again. I've added a model status to the site so you can stay up to date if that's your jam. However, it was a great week for STaRS, which … Continue reading AFL: Round 5, 2024
AFL: Round 4, 2024
Another image post this week. My work load is so mountainous at the moment.
Climbing: Keqiao 2024
It's been over 9 months since my last Sports Climbing post in which I introduced my model and gave myself some goals for improving it. I'm glad to say that I've achieved what I outlined as goals in that post and I'm ready to take on the IFSC circuit and Olympics. Let's start with the … Continue reading Climbing: Keqiao 2024