Climbing: Salt Lake City 2024

Another World Cup this weekend, so we get another climbing post. It's a bouldering/speed world cup and, as usual, I will be covering the boulder part. This is the last World Cup before the Olympic circuit starts up again in mid-May. Once this event concludes, I'm planning on posting about how accurate these predictions have …

Climbing: Wujiang 2024

The boulder event in Keqiao hasn't ended yet, but the lead climbing season starts tomorrow! Like always, the model is a work in progress, etc. Lead climbing is especially difficult to rate since we don't always know how many holds there are on every climb. For the moment, the model is making assumptions on the …

Climbing: Keqiao 2024

It's been over 9 months since my last Sports Climbing post in which I introduced my model and gave myself some goals for improving it. I'm glad to say that I've achieved what I outlined as goals in that post and I'm ready to take on the IFSC circuit and Olympics. Let's start with the …

Introducing ScArPer: My Sport Climbing Model

In what can only be regarded as an incredibly weird step, I've decided to start a model to rate athletes participating in sport climbing - ScArPer (Stattraction Average Performance Rating System). Yes, I skipped the more typical sports to model like cricket, rugby, baseball and basketball and went straight to one so niche that I …